Chefchouen-The Winter Wonderland Medina

From Wikipedia:

Chefchaouen is situated in the Rif Mountains, just inland from Tangier and Tetouan. The city was founded in 1471,^[1] as a small fortress which still exists to this day, by Moulay Ali Ben Moussa Ben Rached El Alami (a decendent of Ibn Machich and Idris I, and through them, of the prophet Muhammad) to fight the Portuguese invasions of northern Morocco.^[2] Along with the Ghomara tribes of the region, many Moriscos and Jews settled here after the Spanish Reconquista in medieval times.^[3] In 1920, the Spanish seized Chefchaouen to form part of Spanish Morocco. Spanish troops imprisoned Abd el-Krim in the kasbah from 1916 to 1917, after he talked with the German consul Dr. Walter Zechlin (1879–1962). (After defeating him with the help of the French force Abd el-Krim was deported to Réunion in 1926). Spain returned the city after the independence of Morocco in 1956. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tetouan to Chefchouen

 

The Drive from Tetouan to Chefchouen can be described in one word-breathtaking. I knew there was beautiful landscape in Morocco, but this truly was amazing. The weather was perfect and the company was even better. We drove through the mountains, passed rivers, and little village towns. We stopped up in the mountains to have fresh milk, fresh butter, olive oil, and fish. It was like being back in the villages from my travels eating everything fresh from the source: the sheep, the cow, the chicken, and the olive tree. The chickens were walking around the house while we were eating and the kids of our friend were so sweet and kind.  What a drive and what a nice time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spanish Finally!

Often I think to myself, “Why don’t I live in the North where I can speak Spanish.” Spanish is pretty much the second language up North with a lot less emphasis on French.  French has pretty much taken over all of Casablanca. In the Northern cities of Tangier, Chefchouen, and Tetouan-they are right on the Mediteranean near Spain. Since Morocco and Spain are neighbors and many Spanish live and visit Tangier, Spanish has become the second language after Arabic. There are also many who speak Berber in the North as well.

Since I have not spoken Spanish in a few years, I worried about my comprehension, but I had many conversations that went very well.  In the North, I found the speaking to be at a nice pace where I could comprehend and respond when appropriate. In some countries like Mexico for instance, they speak so quickly leaving my comprehension to not be very good. 

In Tetouan, Spanish came naturally and it was so great being able to COMMUNICATE with people clearly.  I practiced speaking with the locals in the markets, stores, and with a new friend who teaches at Cervantes.   While my Spanish needs practice, it is amazing all it all just comes back to me.

I must say that it felt so good TO BE UNDERSTOOD. While I can speak a little French and Darija to get me around it is challenging to have full conversations in French and Darija- I try, but it is challenging.  Being in Morocco for six months and at first coming and speaking No French and Darija-the language barrier presents its difficulty. Being in the North and being able to communicate-Wow, what a feeling! While communication can happen non-verbally, at the end of the day there is beauty in being understood.

                Never underestimate the beauty of communication....

 

Islamic Men and Jilbabs

There is no secret that “Pris is in love.” There are men in Morocco that hold a special place in my heart. Their presence fills my heart with joy and I just love sitting and observing them in the medinas, sitting in cafes, working in agriculture, or just walking down the street.  They are truly adorable and melt my heart in a similar way that Indians do.  When I look at them it brings a flashback of my work with the elderly and the innocence of their beings-The Islamic men and their jilbab absolutely adorable.

I especially love those who have a jolly smile, glasses, a few extra pounds, and walking with a cane and their flat cap on top of their head. In the medina’s, I always find many of them walking around or coming out of the mosques. It is pretty much guaranteed to make me smile when I see them. It is beautiful when I witness them in moments of stillness, contemplation, or religious reflection. While I must have respect and not take photos directly, I sneak a few photos on occasion when they are not looking.  I will smile at them with a sense of wonder in my eyes and many will give me that same warm smile right back. Of course, there are those who are grumpy and look at me like, “What are you smiling at girl?”

The other day at the Corniche, I saw an old man who walked so slowly to his seat with the assistance of his helper. He sat down with this face of relief and just inner peace. There was also the one I sat next to on the bus from Tetouan to Casa. He was looking for a seat and I pointed at the open seat next to me and smiled. He sat the whole time just peacefully sleeping and sitting in silence and stillness.

Often I just get this feeling of inner peace from them as if they are just content with their life, content with God, content with their place in the world. They are religious beings who represent this inner peace, which is coming from their religious faith.  They are not in their 20s or 30s, but they are in their 60s, 70s, and 80s. They are grown men with experience, knowledge, and wisdom. They have experienced their life and grown into their true selves having a strong sense of religious identity and awareness of place in their society. 

Perhaps this is what draws me towards them- a sense of inner peace and walking with two feet solidly placed on the ground beneath them.... 

 

 

                                             One of my favorite pictures I took in Tetouan

NYC-Italy-Morocco

On one Moroccan night in Tetouan, a few couchsurfers and new friends enjoyed some nice socializing and cooking together. My host, Luciano, is from Morocco and his two friends from Italy were visiting along with new couchsurfing friends from New York.  The beauty of couchsurfing is the cultural exchange as there was conversation in Italian, Arabic, and English all happening at one time. We were dancing and making jokes with one another in Arabic. 

Also, the  previous night we met with visitors from Latvia(nice, but not as exciting and fun as the Americans). Claire(blonde) just happened to be a chef and worked on a cooking talk show in New York City with her friend, Dan, in red second from left. Claire seems to be quite a traveler as she lives in Brooklyn, New York, but she said she travels 3-4 months per year. She expressed her love for the Asian culture and especially the cuisine.  For a long time, she has worked freelance, which allowed her a flexible schedule to work and travel. She loves Thailand and plans on quitting her job and moving there to explore Thai cooking with the goals of starting her own Thai restaurant in New York of California. It is wonderful to see a beautiful, independent girl living in her purpose- you go girl!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pris and Medinas

It is always, always and adventure in the Medina’s of Morocco. Each major city in Morocco has a Medina.  The Medina is my favorite place to go interact with locals, try some different foods, try on jelabs, speak Arabic, and just make people laugh.  Many of those working selling fruit, spices, clothes and perfumes are just genuine human beings who are sweet, kind, and approachable.

The medina of Tetouan is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is divided into three different sections: Andalusian, the Berber, and the Jewish. There are homes, which have the Andalucian architecture and some with Berber influence. I spent a couple hours speaking with a nice French couple who explained the history of Tetouan and the origin of the Berbers. The Berbers came to Tetouan before the Spanish developing their own language and their own identity in ways. When you meet people who are Berber, they hold a strong sense of pride and always make the Berber distinction.

Within the medina, I walked into a few different Berber houses, which are converted into restaurants, hotels, or shops. The architecture is magnificent and consists of four rooms surrounding a big open space in the middle of the room with the sky light shining inside from the top.  I admire the detail of the doors and the element of a royal home present in the design and structure.  While I also loved the Andalucian architecture, the Berber homes are some of the oldest in the Medina, but by far some of the best.

The medina in Tetouan has seven doors or gates and I visited 5 of them. The medina itself is not such a maze, like other medinas i.e. Fes and even Casablanca, but of course I managed to lose my direction.  I ended up at the same door I started, which was not my intention.  A couple boys on bikes walked me all the way to the city centre and this is where I was riding their bike through the medina and speaking Spanish. One of the Berber guys told me, "Keep riding beautiful all the way to India." I thought that was quite cute. These moments with locals and making such a funny scene in the medina, I often wonder, "Where are the video cameras for this?!"
  
                                           
 

 

 

 

Many of these are posted throughout the Medina

 

 

 

 

 

That is me up there=)

 

Door Obsession

 

 

 

The Tanneries

 

 

American Entertainment on Wheels

 

 

 

 Pris Does Jelab

 

 

 

Zwina Tetouan

Such a beautiful, beautiful day in Tetouan exploring the Medina, speaking with locals, riding a bike through the medina and being comical “Excuse a Mois” “Pardon” “Smehelia” “Buenos tardes” “Bonjour”. English, French, Spanish, and Arabic used and smiles from the locals in the medina. At times, I found myself frozen because I did not know, which language to speak. It was great visiting the tanneries where they make leathers, purses, shoes, and accessories, but the smell and vision of dead flesh all around was a bit nauseating. 

I walked to the top of the viewpoint, which the view point is always, always better if you hike up.  It makes you feel a sense of accomplishment, which then allows you to fully relax and take in the beauty.

A woman who looked like a tiny version of the Wicked witch from the Wizard of Oz sat and spoke Arabic with me asking for money. I said, “No tengo dinero.” She would then keep asking for money.  I really did not have it as I only had a 200DH bill and that was not going to her.  The people who live on the mountain top wear straw hats and village like clothing with a pair of Moroccan shoes.  The man is serving fresh Moroccan mint tea to men who are playing chess and sitting at the viewpoint. 

There were such moments of peace and reflection today. It was just what the doctor ordered-fresh mountain air, silence, and calm, kind people. 

 

 

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Berber House

 

 

 

Look at the Sky!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Gambas, paella, and Flan-Spanish cuisine of the North